On the island of Lombok, Indonesia, lies one of the most underestimated hiking trails. Mount Rinjani. Not because of its amazing views and surroundings. That is actually the reason why it draws so many tourists and backpackers every year. But amongst all of them, many end up underestimating this trek and don’t ever reach the top.
Last year, during my 5 months in Southeast Asia, I managed to attempt this hike for myself. And I will tell you exactly how it went, and what it was like.
How are the hikes organised
First I will give you some information on the different options you generally have when doing this hike. You always have to do this hike with a guided group. Or pay big bucks to do it privately with a guide. There are many organisations to choose from. The ones on the cheaper end mainly differ by offering less comfort during camping and simpler meals. While on the higher end, I’ve seen groups sitting down enjoying drinks around giant tables and sleeping in big and comfy tents.
The big price difference for these reasons makes sense, because there will have to be local employees from your organisation that will carry all this stuff for you the entire hike. All the way untill the last base right below Rinjani’s peak. These men are called “porters”. And they are the backbone of all the Rinjani hikes. Without them, none of it would be possible. And it is actually crazy to see them doing their jobs. All of them walk on simple flip-flops, carrying a big bamboo stick on their shoulders with a bunch of luggage attached to both ends. If you get the chance, try to carry on of them for a second. It feels impossible! But these men do this the whole day, on flip-flops, while walking faster than you! I kid you not, every time we would get to our next campsite, these men were already there setting everything up. It was mind blowing.
How to choose your itinerary
Then there is one last important option to choose, which is the exact itinerary. Most organisastions offer different itineraries, with the most common ones being: 3 days and 2 nights or 2 days and 1 night. Sometimes there is a 4 days and 3 nights option, which usualoly takes the same route and stops as the 3 day option. But you just take it a bit slower and spend an extra night at the lake. It is also good to know that the main Rinjani trail is a single trail, with a specific start point leading all the way up to the summit. But once you descend the summit, there is a different trail that leads you towards the crater lake and eventually, out on the other side. Depending on the organisation and itinerary that you chose, you might start at one end, or the other. Or go up and down the same way from the main trail entrance.
For example, I did a 3-day, 2-night hike where we spent the first day hiking from the other end, on the crater lake side, towards the Senaru crater rim (where you get to see both the lake and the summit from up high). We then spent the second day hiking down the crater rim towards the lake, made our way to the hotsprings, and then hiked up the mountain on the other side towards the Sembalun crater rim campsite on the side of the summit. From there we woke up early to climb the summit on our third and last day. But that meant we also had to go down the whole mountain from summit to the main entrance afterwards, on the same day. It was amazing to have the summit as a final goal on the last day, but enormously exhausting to climb it after hiking for 2 days already, while also having to make your way down the whole mountain on the same day. You already spent nearly 7 hours hiking up and down the summit, and its still only morning. You will spend the rest of the day afterwards hiking down the entire mountain which just completely drains you.
We also encountered many groups that did it the other way around, where they started at the main entrance and climbed straight to the Sembalun crater rim camp site. To then start their summit climb on day 2. But for them it means that they had to climb down the summit back to the camp and from there hike down the trail that leads down to the lake and hot springs, while also hiking back up the other side of the Senaru crater rim to the campsite where we camped our first night. So instead of climbing the summit on the last day and it being the longest and most exhausting day, for them it was the second day which would push them to the limit.
Then finally there is the option to only hike to the summit and back, while skipping the crater lake and hot springs. This way you spend one night at the crater rim camp right below the path towards the summit, which you will follow towards the top on the early morning of day 2. I personally do not recommend this option if you like hiking and want to enjoy all the amazing views. The lake itself is stunning, especially from above. And the hot springs nearby are an amazing experience. Especially during a hiking trek like this where you just feel so refreshed afterwards. I would only do it this way if you are either on a very tight schedule and really can not spend the extra day for some reason. Or, if you aren’t a big fan of hiking and you just want to tick reaching the summit of your bucket list. But in that case, maybe Rinjani is not for you anyways. Why, you wonder? Keep on reading as I will take you with me through my personal experience and you might see what I mean.
The day before the hike
On the day before the hike you will be picked up by a member of the organisation that you booked the hike with. I just arrived on Lombok from Gili Air, so I had them pick me up right from the harbour. And I was not the only one, a few other people were waiting at the same location to be picked up. We drove around the north coast of Lombok to around the halfway point, to then drive south towards the mountain and the organisations main location. We got dinner there, and afterwards, instructions about the hike. We were able to grab some basic equipment as well. Then we went to bed quickly, cause we would have to get up early the next day.
Day 1 – Start of the Hike
After waking up, we enjoyed breakfast during sunrise. I don’t know if the location we were at was one of many with views like this. But the sunrise there was already an amazing sight to see.
We were able to leave most of our luggage there, while only taking a smaller backpack with us for the hike. We packed the essentials, like warm clothing for the nights and the summit, some basic toiletries and filled the rest of our space with snacks. Everyone in our group would do the full 3-day hike, except for two people who would only hike up with us the first day, to just see the lake from the crater rim. Our hiking group jumped in the back of two trucks, together with our guide and our porters. Then we drove off to the starting point of our hike.
Once we arrived, we entered a small office where we had to register. This took just a few minutes for the whole group. Afterwards, it was time to actually start the hike. And in case you didn’t read me saying this earlier. Our guide, as well as our porters, were hiking on flipflops…..!
When you start the hike on this side, you are hiking mostly through forest areas for most of the day. If you have very white skin like me, that might be a big plus. The downside however being, that you can’t see a lot of the surroundings for the first half of the day. But shortly after we took a lunch break, where we did our best to protect our food from the ever lurking pack of monkeys, we were slowly able to peak past the surrounding trees. And the views became more incredible, very fast. We reached the point where we were hiking through the clouds surrounding the mountain, which was reason enough to protect ourselves and our bags from the water by covering up with plastic ponchos.
Most of the climb so far was actually pretty steep. It was doable, but definitely not easy. I feel like everybodies heart rate was constantly spiking. Little did we know that the final part of todays hike would push us even harder. But we got some fresh energy and motiviation once we got past the layer of mist and clouds, where we were surprised with simply incredible views. We couldn’t wait to get up higher and higher so we could get an ever better view that looked like this.
From this point we were getting close to the campsite on the Senaru crater rim and the climb became less steep. So it was time to just enjoy the views while making our way through the final stretch of the day.
Once we arrived at the camp site there were several spots with tents from different groups. We found our spot and realised our porters had already set up most of the camp. We figured out who would sleep in which tent and sat down to rest and enjoy the views while waiting for dinner. From the campsite, we had an amazing view of both the crater and its lake. But the clouds were still hiding the summit from our sight.
Dinner was served, and our crew served us some fried rice and tempeh. The food was fine, but portions were not very big. At this point I realised I might not have brought enough snacks for 3 days. Already during the day the crew offered us some cookies during small breaks, which I saw contained milk in them. I have been living vegan for the past 10 years already. And because of that, I know if I ingest milk my stomach is not going to like it. I did check with the organisation before I booked and before we departed for the hike if they would be able to accomodate me by providing vegan meals. But unfortunately it can happen where people don’t always completely understand or forget to check certain things. It still wasn’t a big deal, I brough some snacks of my own and food was okay. But later that was going to change. But more on that later.
The sun was about to set, and it was incredible to watch the sun set behind the clouds and mountains while being at an altitude of 2641 meters yourself.
But what came shortly after sunset was just as beautiful, if not more. The starry night sky up there was simply incredible. You quickly realise that don’t ever see them like that. But being so high up, and so far away from any source of light pollution made for an amazing and crystal clear view of the stars. My phone camera was all that I had, and those pictures do not do it justice. So you just have to go and see for yourselves.
Day 2 – The Lake
Since we had a long day ahead of us again, we had to wake up early. I definitely had better nights of sleep in my life than that night. The mats on which we slept were too thin, so you could still feel the rocks and stone underneath. And I had to share a tent with an older Japanese man who was very kind, but also, unfortunately, made a lot of noise in his sleep. But what I saw once I got out of my tent instantly made me feel energetic again. Most of the clouds had disappeared, and the summit was clearly in sight now. The lake was sitting right below, and had a green/blue color. And behind the mountain, the sun was slowly rising. Making the sky go from bright orange to light blue.
After we had some pancakes for breakfast, it was time to start our descent into the crater and towards the lake. The climb down was very steep, so we had to take it slow and be careful at certain parts. They even built an actual stairway at some point to allow people to be able to pass this steep area. After a while, the steepest part was over and we started to get a very wide and clear view of the lake.
The colors were so bright blue and green. Looking at the picture you might think the colors are enhanced. But trust me, they are not. In person I also thought it looked almost fake. It was incredible.
After a few hours total, we were getting close to the lake. The last part we hiked through a downhill part with gigantic loose rocks and boulders everywhere. And at the end we ended up walking straight towards the lake. It is interesting to see how the lakes colors seems to be so different up close. It doesn’t look nearly as bright blue and when you look at it from up high. But it was still very nice down there.
What makes that area particularly special is the fact that inside the giant crater, in the middle of the lake, lies a smaller crater that is actually still active. You could clearly see smoke coming from it as well. In fact, it wasn’t even that long ago since it last erupted which was in september 2016.
We walked around the lake a little further towards the left side, where we were told the hot springs would be. Once we walked up again on the left side, we were greeted by an amazing view of the mountain valley on that side.
We made our way down on the other side so we could enjoy the hot springs. There was a waterfall flowing down right behind it. It was actually pretty strong. But just in front of it was a pool of water and a rock formation shaped like a big bathtub, filled with very hot water. It was quite the contrast to have this very hot water right next to a cold water stream and waterfall. After hiking for a day and half already where we also weren’t able to shower, going in the hot spring felt amazingly refreshing. Afterwards we went back to the lakeside for lunch.
Once we finished our lunch, it was time for the second and toughest part of the day. We were going to hike from the lake, all the way up to the Sembalun crater rim campsite. This was a steep climb, especially the second half. And halfwaythrough, for this first time, it started to rain. Everyone was exhausted and we were pushing ourselves constantly to just keep going. The rain made everything that much more exhausting and difficult. Once you start to get up higher again you are hiking mostly on rocks, which were turning slippery as well. And the plastic poncho’s that we brought were only doing so much. At this point I was really starting to regret not bringing more food and snacks myself. I was running on very little sleep and very minimal food. My body was feeling that for sure.
When we finally managed to get to the crater rim everyone couldn’t wait to find our campsite. Me and a few others went ahead of the rest of the group a while ago, since some people had more trouble completing the hike and were constantly falling behind. The guide had to make sure to stay with them and told us we could follow the porters towards the top. Since we didn’t know the exact location of our campsite we decided to walk around a bit and we were surprised to find some people had built a little tent or shed from which they sold snacks and drinks. I thought it was quite hilarious to find something like this 2600 meters up high, but at the same time I also felt relieved. Even though the prices were ofcourse a lot higher than what you would pay anywhere else, I didn’t care. I bought several snacks so I could have something today, and also would have some snacks that could help me get through the next day.
We then found the campsite, settled into our tents, and enjoyed the views once again while we waited for dinner time. This time, I actually had a tent to myself. Since the Japanese man, together with another girl, only did the first day of hiking and went back the same way on the second day. So I was happy with that, even though I knew sleep would be tough again lying on the same thin mats. For now thought, I wasn’t gonna worry about it and just enjoyed the views. And they were again very awesome. From my tent I could see the whole lake and the crater, it was quite amazing to see.
Dinner was more of the same. It was alright, but deep down I wish I could enjoy a nice and big meal. At this campsite is where I got a good look as well at the many different groups that were going to the summit. Compared to the previous campsite, this one was actually very busy. There were groups with big tents and tables full of food. This is where I realised what you get if you do decide to pay the premium price. But as a young backpacker, I didn’t think about it too much honestly. I was thinking, when I am older and still doing this, then I can pay for that kind of stuff. I was enjoying the experience as it is already. Even though it was tough at times.
So after dinner, it was time to head to sleap immediately. We would have to wake up at 02:00 AM to prepare for our hike to the summit. Since everybody wants to reach the summit before sunrise and it would take at least 3 hours to get there.
Day 3 – The Summit
Our guide woke us at 02:00 AM and it was time to get ready for the final stretch to the summit. I put on almost all the clother that I brought, cause when you are this high up in the middle of the night. It gets very cold. Our guide gave us the amazing idea to pack our sleeping bags and bring them to the top, so we also did that. We could leave stuff at the campsite this time because we would come straight back down there anyways. So plenty of room to bring snacks, water and the sleeping bag. We were given headlights at the start of the hike, which finally came in handy. Somewhere before 03:00 AM we headed out towards the trail.
I normally never hike with trekking poles, since I prefer to balance myself and keep my hands free. And up untill this point, I was happy with my choice not to take them with me from the hiking organisation. But once we started get to the main trail, I started to slightly regret that decision. Only the first few minutes you are hiking on ‘normal ground’. But afterwards, for the whole 3 hours, you are hiking through deep and fine vulcanic gravel. And it is incredible steep! This means that every step you take ends up being half a step if you do it somewhat correctly. Since you slide down every step you take as well. We quickly figured out the best strategy would be to follow in other people’s footsteps so that you slide down less. But at the same time, it was incredible hard to see properly. It was the middle of the night and even though you have a headlight, most of them were pretty mediocre. After just pushing each other to take step after step for an hour straight, I was starting to reach a breaking point.
Up untill that point, for the whole hike so far, I was mostly the one walking in front and pulling everybody with me while leading the way. I did the same here but then, for the first time during these three days, I felt so exhausted that I just had to take a break. My body was running on nothing. I barely slept again and had very little food in my stomach and I felt like I just reached a point where my body was telling me, enough is enough. But there was no way that, after all these days of hiking, I would not reach the summit before sunrise. I just had to get there, and I had to get there on time. I gathered my strength and started pushing through again. The way up also became more narrow narrow, and at some point you were walking completely in the open so the wind was starting to fully blow on you as well. When you are walking up in the dark you don’t fully realise how narrow and scary the way up actually is, which is a good thing I guess. But once you head back down after sunrise, only then you realise how crazy the way up actually was.
At this point I had to keep taking small breaks and regather my strength every few minutes. You could see the summit from that point on the whole time. And you keep telling yourself, It can’t be that far away anymore. But it felt like it was a never ending way up. Step after step, sliding back down constantly, it became incredibly tough. I don’t think there is any point in my life previous to that where I had to push myself this far physically and mentally at the same time. There were many moments where I felt like I actually couldn’t keep up anymore. But over and over again, I managed to take another step up. Even though I was going very slow at that point.
Eventually, the summit was actually getting close. And at the same time it was slowly starting to become less dark. “The sun is going to rise!”, I thought. I was so close and so incredibly exhausted. But realising that the sun was about to rise made me find some deeply hidden extra bit of energy somwhere and push through the final stretch. I arrived at the top a bit after some other people of my group but still ahead of another few. At this point it wasn’t dark anymore but the sun wasn’t visible just yet. I was so happy that I actually made it. I quickly sat down with my group, took out the sleeping bag and quickly jumped into it because it was so cold up there. Everyone was exhausted and sleepy which made it feel even colder. We sat close to one another waiting for the sun to fully rise.
Once it finally did, everyone started to slowly become alive again. We were slowly getting up and started to feel like it was all worth it. It was incredibly to be up there with the sun rising.
We felt slightly reenergized and started to smile again. It started to hit us that we actually did it. We took some pictures with the summit sign and enjoyed the views for a little bit longer. We were 3726 meters up high after all, we had to make sure to really take it all in as well as get it on camera.
We also realised that another group that was with us didn’t make it to the top, as well as one of our own group members. There actually were way less people at the summit than the amount of people we saw at the campsite. Which makes sense afterwards, when we learned that only about 25% of the people starting the hike are actually able to see it through all the way to the summit.
But we also knew that we had to be back at the campsite as soon as possible again. It’s crazy to think about it after you just pushed yourself to a point that you have never done before. But the day technically had only just started. We still had to hike all the way down the entire mountain during the rest of the day. So with that in mind, we started our descent back to camp. I am not gonna lie, for a little bit, going down felt a lot nicer and actually kind of fun. Since sliding down could now be used to your advantage while going down through the volcanic gravel. And this time, with there being daylight, we could actually see all the surroundings while going down the trail.
And the surroundings looked amazing. And the experience felt even more surreal because we already walked past all of it, only we didn’t have the slightest clue because of the dark. Once you walked down a little bit, there were these giant bright red rock formations which almost seemed to form a path straight down to the crater.
At some point we were even able to see our campsite pretty clearly on the crater rim. Even though we stopped many times to take pictures and just enjoy the views, we also realised we had to keep up the pace and go down back to the camp. Which slowly became more difficult again. We were still tired and even though sliding down was faster and fun at the start. Eventually that also became difficult and somewhat annoying. Not being able to take normal steps.
But eventually we made it back, and let me tell you this. Walking on normal ground again never felt that good in my life. At that point I felt like I couldn’t see volcanic gravel ever again. The porters had already packed most of the camping gear. We had a bit of time to finally have breakfast, after which we left immediately to start our journey down the mountain. The steep climb down took more time than going up for sure. We had to be careful with our steps, people were exhausted, and a lot of the steps still seemed very slippery. But at the same time, it felt nice to be hiking ‘normally’ again, and the sun started to come through.
We were hiking down the Sembalun trail this time and we encountered many groups that were going up while we were descending. About halfway through the path became a lot less steep and eventually, the final parts felt more like walking downhill. Which was very nice after hiking for three days straight. At one of the stop point below the mountain we had some lunch, after which we walked the final stretch to the entrance and our pick up point. Our guide was walking with an umbrella and once he sat down, it made for a great picture.
The last part we walked through a foresty part which led us to the entrance of the trail. We were all super relieved to have made it to the end. And looking back at the mountain from below, it felt crazy to think that the very morning on that day we were actually on that summit. We got picked up by a truck, jumped in the back and drove back to the organisation’s building where our luggage was waiting for us. At the end, they gave us a keychain with our names on it and the details of the hike we did. I thought that was pretty cool. I still have it on my keys to this day. Every time I look at it, it reminds me how far I am able to push myself to reach my goals.
This hike was by far the toughest hike I had done so far. I had never pushed myself that far both mentally and physically at the same time. But I was glad I did it. The experience was a once in a lifetime hike that I am never going to forget. But would I go back to do it all over again? I think this is once of those hikes you do once, you are very happy you were able to do it, but the thought of going back already scares you enough to never do it again.
So it this hike for everyone? Definitely not. At least, not if you think about reaching the summit. This hike is not for the weak. You need a good level of fitness and definitely some hiking experience I would say. It will test you both physically and mentally to levels most people haven’t experienced before. But if you are in good shape, you like hiking, and you are traveling around Lombok. Then I feel like this is one of those things you just have to do while you have the chance. And in that case, I hope my guide and stories will help you to complete it.